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Gold and Silver Threads
These threads are my current favorites for working 17th century metal stitches such as the plaited braid, reverse chain, ceylon, ladder and the like. The threads are different in weight and one set is faux (#371 and #380). The faux set is great for learning the stitches before you progress to working with the more expensive real metal threads.
These threads should be used with a Japanese needle as it will both keep the thread from shreading in the needle and will open a nice hole in your linen to pull the thread through. The #9 Japanese needle works well for the #5 Smooth Passing, #4 Smooth Passing, and #371/#380 Wyre. Use a #7 Japanese needle for the Special Tambour and 9drm Tambour sizes which are very fine.
The 9 drm Gilt and 90% Silver Tambours were the threads used on the Plimoth Jacket to make the bobbin lace. They are specially wound to work well for lace making.
The Gilt #4 Smooth Passing on Silk was made specially for the Plimoth Jacket for the Plaited Braid.
The Gilt Special Tambour was made for me so I could work goblin stitch for the backgrounds of 17th century pieces. Many sweet bags have this treatment. It also makes a very fine and pleasing plaited braid.
All real metal threads are a very thin layer of gold on silver on copper or silver on copper. They will tarnish over time. Care should be taken when storing the threads. Keep them wrapped with acid free tissue paper. Never store in a wooden box as the outgassing of the wood will tarnish them faster. Keeping your skin oils off the gold threads will help them last longer. This is a natural process and will give your pieces a slowly antique look as the decades pass.
Between May 24 and June 30, 2009 the blog on this website will discuss the fine points of metal threads for plaited braid if you are looking for more information.
A note on amounts. The finer thread are sold by grams. I do not know the exact number of meters for each. I can give a guide: A tube of Special Tambour will cover approximately 26 square inches of linen in half cross over two. We used a little over three tubes of each of the 9 drm Tambours to make all the bobbin lace for the Plimoth jacket. The lace is 1 1/4" deep and runs over several yards in length.
($5 of each spool goes to Winterthur as restricted funds for the exhibition of the Jacket Project)
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